1st -3rd October

Departing Lightning Ridge heading south we decided to follow rural roads and not main roads. We are quite surprised at how green everything is up here. They have obviously had regular rains and now that there is plenty of growth. We have also seen more emus around here than we’ve seen anywhere. Lots of young ones as well. Must be a good breeding season.

We pass through some good grain areas where crops are looking good, large grain storage facilities, cotton storage facilities, small towns, some thriving some only just surviving, saw painted silos, murals and some relics of old homesteads. The drive has been very enjoyable with great views around every corner.

(P:-As we drive over the next hill and around the corner we go from what appear to be good grain crops to poor, with some not making the harvest and being cut for hay. I was amazed how variable it has been, district to district.).

A short stop in Condobolin to view the “Utes in the Paddock”, a very quirky tourist stop. Local residents nominated members of Condobolins youth services to represent their artwork and culture in this quirky exhibition. (P:- A line up of Holden Utes that people have let their Imagination run loose on- if ya are gunna have art well this type of art is for me! I have seen a few similar installations in our travels – the “Cadillac Car” row in Texas and the “John Deere” tractor row in Kentucky.

Along the way Philip spots a large old timber Woolshed off in the distance. We pullover and park and he gets out to take some photos from the fence line/gateway. Then just as he is about to get back into the truck a guy in a Ute with his kelpie on the front seat pulls up and asks what he’s doing. Philip explains the we love old Woolsheds and he was just taking some photos. The guy told him to drive in and have a good look. “The rear door is unlocked, feel free to have a look inside and enjoy”. We find out that this is the Naradhan Woolshed on Morwell Station and although it is not used anymore it has been kept in great condition. What a treat to be able to wander around. The smell or sheep and lanolin still clings to the timber and if we stand still we can almost hear the sheep, the Shearers and the rouse abouts echoing through the stalls. This has been a highlight for this part of our trip. (P:- Naradhan Wool Shed built Circa 1888 and is in beautiful condition, originally a 30 stand hand shear shed ( Imagine the “Click Goes the Shears” sound! When shearing was mechanised it was converted to a 14 stand shed, (all the old chutes and pens from the original days are still all in place) machines driven by an overhead belt system, originally by steam engine then later a Stationary gas engine. 4 generations of wool presses still onsite along with a fantastic amount of old shearing equipment still in the shed ( some in place, some stored, which tells the story of the evolution of shearing Merino sheep in Australia. How kind of the owner to allow us to explore!

We continue on the Barellan where we are just one of about 1000 vans/campers that are on site for the Barellan Clydesdale Horse festival which officially starts tomorrow (Friday).

Friday dawns chilly but clear and we are ready to see what this show has to offer. First stop is to watch a lady talking about riding side saddle, very interesting and very etiquette based, from clothing to saddlery to mounting the horse. Then we wander around the stalls selling all things horsey, stock whips, saddlery, garden art etc. At 10.30 we walk the short distance into town for the Grand Parade. The highway is closed off and the horses, camels, mules and oxen make their way down the Main Street towing carriages, carts and wagons, along with cattlemen and women on horseback. A wonderful display of times gone by. (P:-This is the second time I have been to this festival -one not to be missed if you like “Rural History”. I can only just remember “Beauty and Topsy” the last two draught Horses on our South Road Family Farm. This festival is loaded with dedicated friendly historians who just love to show their animals and share their knowledge. Old horse drawn implements demonstrated, Drays, Traps and Carriages, Wool Wagons, Paddock Rollers to Cobb and Co Coaches were all there being demonstrated. A hi-light of the festival was the Grand Parade of all of the above down the Main Street of Barellan. The traffic stopped, the Road trains waited ( the main st is also the Highway thru the area) as the four legged spectacle took ownership of the main street. The sight and sounds of 28 Bullocks pulling a wagon and 32 Draught Horses pulling another followed by the Cobb and Co Coach harnessed to beautiful heavy horses will leave a lasting memory! A highlight of the festival was the harnessing of 62 Heavy Horses to a loaded wool wagon all controlled from the wagon ( that’s a long set of reigns to the lead 4 horses) Evidently 62 Horses harnessed and used is a world record!)

Back to the Showgrounds where we watch the Outback Stockman show and then later in the evening James Blundel and Lockie Cossar perform for several hours.

Barellan is also the birthplace of Evonne Goolagong. She was ranked as world Number 1 women’s tennis player during the 1970-80s.

Saturday we have an early start heading to Geelong to catch our “cruise” back to Tasmania. We have a 700klm drive plus a bit of visiting to do on the way. With a stop in Bendigo to see Kevin and Isabel. Touristing has stopped and it’s a straight run through. We stop just before the Spirit Terminal to have some dinner and a stretch of the legs, then on to boarding.

After a smooth sailing we arrive back in Tasmania and head for home.

We have travelled just under 17,000 kilometres. Showed some Aussie highlights to three of our grandchildren, caught up with friends and family along the way. Drove some of the worst roads we have ever travelled and enjoyed every minute.

(P:- been great to do a “Half Lap of Aussie” as diverse and distant as it is! As I often say “ ya just Gotta love Aussie”!)

29-30th September

Wow, Lightning Ridge you have amazed me. I always thought it would be like Coober Pedy, dusty, barren, rocky, mullock heaps everywhere but it’s nothing like that. It’s just a normal looking town, paved streets, bowls club, shops visitors centre and an artesian bore bath.

The first night here we drove out to the Artesian Bore Baths for a dip in the 40 degree water. Very relaxing and although you can only stay in for a short time before having a cool shower and then getting back in it’s a pleasant experience. Then it’s down to the supermarket for a few things before heading back to the van. Or so we thought …….

We jump back into the truck and Philip turns the key. The dash lights up with multiple warnings and it locks the gears. The dash lights fade and Philips face pales. Here we are angle parked in the Main Street of a Lightning Ridge 5.30 at night and nothing is working. All sorts of things are going through my mind but I’m staying quiet and letting Philip work through things. After some time I walk back to the van with the Icecream we have just purchased to get it into the freezer. Can’t have the Icecream melting. After quite some time Philip arrives back at the van with the truck on a tilt tray still not going. They unload, whilst being watched by most of the other campers. Not really the sight I wanted to see just before 8pm on a Monday evening 5 days before we are due to Sail back to Tasmania.

Next morning after some discussions with Mark and time spent under the bonnet, Philip finally gets the truck going again, we hope.

(P:- Yep it was a bit of a shock to jump in my beloved truck and see my dash light up like a Christmas tree. I have learned if there is an issue it’s time to work a plan. You can’t help but appreciate being in a country town! I had no sooner lifted the bonnet and there was a “G’Day Mate can I help you? I am John the local Plumber. After introducing myself to my new mate I had 2 main concerns – 1) my icecream was gunna melt (so Judith kindly offered to walk to the van with that) 2) it was dark and to get the Chev off the street. It just so happened my “Mate” John had a good “Mate” Steve who was the local Tilt truck owner! (Good to have mates I tell you!) Well Steve was there in 20 minutes and we soon had “Sick” Chev on the truck and delivered back to the caravan. I was imagining all sorts of logistical challenges getting Us, our Chev and Van back to Tassie but thought- I am Hungry, let’s worry about that tomorrow! As the author said above it didn’t take long to find the issue and fix! A 50 cent nut had vibrated loose on a main power line feeding the Chevs computers- All fixed and back to normal. I also found out my “Mate” Steve likes Cash and gave me a great deal on the recovery proving “Cash is still King” ).

First up this morning it’s on the bikes and out to the Bore Baths, a lovely way to start the day. Then while Philip worked on the truck I did some washing, organised breakfast and stayed out of the way. (P:- Wise idea Judith!) After some time under the bonnet and discussions with Mark, Philip finally gets the truck going. Thank goodness. Now to take it for a drive to make sure it’s working okay.

Yesterday we picked up a brochure from the Visitors Centre for the Car Door tours. This takes us to see the opal mining areas out of the main town centre. 4 different tours around various parts of Lightning Ridge with an info sheet from the visitors centre giving us information and coloured car doors showing the way. The first mine here, the Australian Opal Centre, being built, the open cut mine, various mine tours and much more. It’s a great way to see the bigger picture of what a lightning Ridge has to offer. (P:- and the Chev performed perfectly).

Then later in the afternoon it’s back on the bikes and out to the Bore Baths for another dip, before walking down to the Lightning Ridge District Bowls Club for dinner. And what delicious meal it was as too. (P:- Tomorrow we best hit the roads South again. From 36 ish degrees today we know we are heading towards 15-17 as we head south. As for which Route we take – who knows? All I know it will be a twisty windy Route of country roads, avoiding the Main Highways. South we head or I kinda think I might have a Grumpy Mother – In – Law, evidently she is missing me! Or was that Judith she is missing??)

27-09-25

The time has finally come for us to leave Broadwater, Gold Coast and start to make our way south. One week today (P:- Correction at time of posting 5 DAYS ) and we are on the Spirit of Tas heading for home. But we have a week. So what will we do, where will we go.

We make it a whole 80 kilometres before we stop in Murwillumbah, out come the bikes and we hit the Northern Rivers Rail Trail. Now let me back up just a bit. Yes, I have a new e-bike and yes I could get ahead of Philip and do it without stress on my knees. I liked the feeling, but apparently Philip didn’t like being left behind. You all know that he is a keen bargainer, so he’s busily searching Facebook Marketplace for a used e-bike. Luckily for him, unluckily for me, (I liked outriding him,) he found one the right size and price, that had hardly been used. Now we have four bikes on board. Two that will get very little use and two new snazzy e-bikes. (P:-What can I say? But one thing for sure is I do like to buy a bargain – and I did – and the Author still sails past with a cheeky grin).

Now back to the rail trail. This rail trail is fairly new. The first part that we are riding is the first 30 k of what will be a 130 k trail from Murwillumbah to Casino. This is a world heritage region thanks to its rainforests. The trail has 26 bridges, 6 restored and 10 bypassed as well as two tunnels and great views of Mt Warning. It is extremely picturesque and a great ride. We rode the first 15k down to the Burringbah Range Tunnel and return. This tunnel is the longest on the ride at 534 metres. We stopped at Stokers Siding Cafe for a light lunch, a small quiche and drink each. They were very tasty, before continuing back to Murwillumbah where we stowed the bikes back into the truck and headed down to Mooball which is at the southern end of this part of the track. The facilities along the track are great with bike hire, repair and sales shop at the start and finish, cafes, galleries, sign boards and rest areas along the way. It made for a great morning of sun, exercise and great views.

We continued driving south crossing the Richmond and Clarence Rivers and turning onto the Big River Way that followed the Clarence river through some lovely countryside and cute towns, eventually stopping for the night at Ulmarra. After parking at the Showgrounds we walked the short distance into town and along the riverfront and back just to loosen some muscles before dinner.

During the evening more decisions have to be made. Where to now? Philip thinks we will head back to the coast then south and back up over waterfall way. We will see in the morning if that happens.

We are off just before 8am this morning I’m thinking we heading to the coast but that doesn’t happen. Once we arrive in Grafton Philip turns west not east and we plug Glen Innes into the GPS, this heads us up over the beautiful Gibraltar Range on the Gwydir Highway, with good views down the valleys, palms and manferns lining the roadside and a total change of trees and growth as we crest the top of the range and head down the western side. This is a great road and being a Sunday traffic is pretty quiet.

From Glen Innes we head south to Armidale which will be our stop for tonight. Oh no that didn’t happen, we reached Guyra where we stopped for lunch, got the maps out and discovered we had time on our hands so we decided to head further West and North towards Lightning Ridge (won’t make it there tonight). So from Guyra we turn northwest and back onto the Gwydir Highway. We are now heading into grain country, sheep country and more agriculture. Around 4pm we find a great little campground on the Gwydir River, no one else around, views of the river from one window, views of grain paddocks from the other and lovely mauve flowers carpeting the ground. A lovely spot for the night. (P:- The author was too busy typing this to notice the beautiful sunset we had! Judith has never been to Lightning Ridge so in an instant we decided – let’s do it! It’s only 6 or 700 klm in the wrong direction for us to make up and we have all week – well 5 days). What a beautiful scenic “Road Trip” day it has been- a beautiful country drive.

14-26-09-25

After the busy music weekend we head to Maroochydore for some quiet down time.

(P:- I guess “downtime” mentioned by the author is her sense of humour showing! How in the heck do you need “downtime” from doing what you want, how you want and when you want?? Go figure)!

We were expecting it to be busy at the van park but it’s the opposite with many sites vacant. The beaches and walking/bike paths are busy though. First mornings busy with washing and cleaning, (the chores still have to be done even when on holiday) (P:- yes a Man’s work is never done)!!! then it’s off for a bike ride. There’s no point asking Philip where we are going, it’s a given that we will ride around to Mooloolaba to the Fish Market. Always one of the first stops we make when staying here. The lure of fresh prawns is like a magnet to him so we have to purchase some and also some fresh barramundi and chips for lunch. Then it’s back on the bikes and retrace our steps back to the park. It’s a lovely place to ride, except for riding up the hill at Alexandra Headland.

(P:-Alexandra Headland! The “Author” always complains about this scenic “knob” that separates Maroochydore and Mooloolaba, when we return to the van she is hobbling and struggles to climb the 3 steps into the Caravan! I suggest the name of a good knee surgeon, Who did wonders with my knees 11 years ago. I then did the sums and came up with a cheaper option than new Knees. The next morning after much “Facebook Market Place” research we are off to find a “bargain priced, as new, owned by a little old lady who couldn’t ride, E-Bike. Mission Accomplished!!)

Another day we drive down to Redcliffe for lunch. This is a much older area but again there is some great bike paths, something to explore next time. While looking for somewhere to stop for lunch we discovered a small alley called Bee Gees Way. After reading some of the placards there we discovered that Redcliffe is the birthplace of the Bee Gees and where they first played together as a group, through a PA at the Redcliffe Speedway. People threw money onto the racetrack and they met the DJ and leading racing driver, Bill Gates who suggested they call themselves the BG’s, and the rest is history.

(P:- We are off to Mooloolaba again today ( Judith likes swimming at the beach there, which conveniently is right near the seafood shop) On the bikes and off we go! For the first time in living memory Phil is left for dead, Judith speeds past me as we tackle Alexandra Headland and disappears into the morning sunlight, All I see is a cheeky grin on her face as she easily rides past me! The same happened on the return after the swim. At the van there are no hobbles or limps, looks like the E- Bike is real cheap compared to new knees!)

More bike rides, walks and relaxing was enjoyed around Maroochydore before we moved parks down to Broadbeach on the Gold Coast. It’s now school holidays and there are kids and family’s everywhere. The bouncing pillow is a drawcard for the kids and they line up of a morning waiting for the gates to open. They move from the pillow to the pool and back again. Bikes and scooters navigate the roads around the park all day and the families are having great times. It’s so good to see families enjoying this time together.

Sunday we spent the day with Philips cousin Peter and his wife Di. Had a great catch up and a lovely meal together. (P:- for years as we drive Judith knits, and knits and re knits children’s and babies clothing and gives to charity ( I guess it keeps her busy rather than being a co-driver instructor all the time). I don’t know how many garments have been knitted but it’s dozens and dozens. Cousin Di had been doing a bit of sorting out and had a 15-20kg bag of wool and a zillion buttons for Judith, she was wrapped! A very generous gift for Judith to knit up and donate to charity- I did try to help one day when Judith wasn’t looking – don’t think she was impressed with the un knitting she had to do).

Monday after a relaxing morning we headed off for a bike ride through the Broadwater parklands over the bridge and out toward Broadwater Beach. It’s amazing to see the beach and how much sand has disappeared due to the latest cyclone. There is lots of building happening and sand dredging to move sand onto the beach. It’s going to take a long time to get the beach back to what is was. Then we cycle out to the Spit, passed what used to be some very swanky resorts but are starting to look very tired. There is again a lot of work happening around the parklands at the end of the spit with new car parks and pathways, jetty’s and gardens. We sit and watch the boats entering and exiting the mouth of the river for a while just soaking in the sun before riding back along the pathway to find somewhere for lunch. Found Pete’s Seafoods, a fish shop and processing factory. Boy were their fish and chips yummy. Nothing better than a feed of fish and chips sitting outside enjoying some people watching. (P:- especially when we can select a fresh fish fillet and have it cooked to our liking). Then it’s the return cycle back to the van. 22 km cycled all up. Not too bad for an old girl (P:- an old girl and her E-Bike).

Tuesday we spent the day with Peter and Di again, taking a drive up to the Tambourine Mountains. This is a lovely area that we have never visited before but is now on our to-do list next time we are up this way. Lots of eateries, quaint shops and gardens etc to check out. Peter has bought us up here to have a look at a building project that is happening. A holiday home that has the most awesome views over the Gold Coast area. The home will be a mansion when it is finished (in about two years time). Two swimming pools, Butlers entry and storerooms, parking for multiple vehicles, massive windows and much more. Just the gardens will be spectacular. About 40 man ferns purchased from Scottsdale, Tasmania, and freighted up here all look to be very healthy with new growth. A man made lagoon, waterfall and deck are gorgeous and there will be a tennis court with its own pavilion and amenities in the grounds as well. All this is on a 50 acre property that has some of the only remaining native rainforest in the area, which is used in movies and tv advertising etc. Some of the movies filmed here are A Touch of a Paradise, Kokoda and Dora the Explorer. I would very much like to come back in a couple of years and see the finished project.

We will spend the next couple of days around this area before we start to head south towards home. (P:- I think the Author needs more “downtime” before heading south to cooler climes)!

9-14th September

What a way to spend a few days, great music, beautiful days, clear, crisp evenings and a stage full of talented country artists. This is our second time attending the Nanango Heritage Country Music Muster and it didn’t disappoint. (P:- I thought the “Heritage” in the name was an indication of the age of all the “old” grey nomads that attend. Evidently not the event is sponsored by the local community Heritage Bank!! ). The Nanango Showground was packed with 614 caravans, motor homes and rooftop tents of all shapes and sizes. The stage was full of musicians and singers that kept the music flowing for 10-12 hours each day. (P:- Talk about country ( and the demographic) I couldn’t use my Credit or Debit card to buy food or coffee or Icecream! It was all Cash only, its along time since I have seen that!) The town centre was just a short ride away if we needed a break from the music and we were able to share the event with friends, Cameron and Margaret. A couple of lovely shared meals together and lots of time sitting chatting about the artists we liked or disliked (not many). (P:- And a few yarns and stories shared from the past). By the time the weekend was over our ears were ringing and songs were cycling through our minds continually. We have new artists that we enjoy and will follow and artists that we knew but now have a greater appreciation of their music.

Not only was there music but also bush poets. This is becoming a lost art, but the poets that took part entertained us with fun poems, serious rhyme and great funny poetry that spoke about Australia and our heritage. How they remembered the words is beyond me but they were very entertaining. (P:- for once I was pleased we didn’t win the raffle! What the heck would I do with a Guitar, Ukulele or a Harmonica! The power tools I have won in the past at other events are a much more sensible prize!!)

Sunday afternoon, after a morning of bush poetry and gospel music we packed up and drove to Maroochydore where we will spend the next 6 days. Philip is hanging out for some more prawns and we happen to know where there is a great seafood shop just a short ride away.

An easy move from Townsville to Airlie Beach for a few days. A stop in Bowen for fish and chips for lunch (:-P taking my wife for lunch was purely an excuse to restock my fridge with Fresh Prawns – and they were delicious (Fish and Chips were good too!) and then into the park at Jubilee Pocket. Then a swim for me while Philip has a snooze. Airlie Beach is always a good spot for boat watching, cycling and walking.

After visiting the market on Saturday morning we cycle around to the Coral Sea Marina for a coffee and cake and to watch the yachts coming and going.

This marina has developed into a mega yacht area and there are plenty here to drool over. While we have our drinks we watch as people board the DeLisle 111, a charter yacht, for a few nights of expensive fun. This can be chartered for 3 nights minimum from $127,500 plus tax or for a week for a cool $165,000 plus tax. Sleeps 10 so that is just $16 500 per person for a week and that doesn’t include food or drinks.

Another super yacht there was the Pleiades 11, my favourite, this also has a capacity of 10-12 guests and is $98,000. Guess it will be a while before we charter it for a week.

07-09-25

We packed up and started to head south this morning. We have 3.5 days to fill in before our next few days stay. I am assuming we will just head down the Bruce Highway, taking our time and looking around. The first 180 k went as I thought. Then as we pulled out from the fuel station at Sarina, we take a turn to the west and start to head away from the Bruce a Highway and the coast and head inland. I look at Philip and he smirks and says “ I’m sick of the highway let’s see what’s down this road, it will bring us out somewhere near where we need to be”. So off we head up over the Sarina Range on a narrow country road, through small towns and then mining areas. Now Philip can spout on about the mining in this area. (P:- yes the author was correct with her thoughts of our travel plans the next few days! After a couple of hours tracking down the Bruce Highway I figured it was time for a change. We did this “Grey Nomad Trail” last year so time for some more exploring. Fuel in the Tank and Food in the fridge, no need for discussion the Chev is Heading West and up over the Great Dividing Range with us and Van in Tow. We are heading to Cattle and Coal Mining Country! The thought of all that large mining machinery encourages us – Opps- Me on.

Coal Mining, agriculture, small towns, winding roads, road trains and great views entertain us over the next couple of days as we travel from the coast, inland to Emerald then back to Blackwater and down to Nanango. Roadside camps small towns bakery, painted silos and fruit and veg stalls along the way.

We were up very early (3 am) one morning to watch a lunar eclipse and red moon, (Philip spent more time watching than me in the fresh morning air. But it was special to see.

(P:- Once we got to Blackwater we headed South again on the aptly named “ Australia’s Country Way” a great drive through diverse areas of Agriculture, Cattle, Grain, Hay, Citrus, Vegetables to name a few. Where there was irrigation water the thriving crops were a kaleidoscope of shapes and colours. Unfortunately, due to a malfunction in our “scheduling and planning” department we had to rush this area. For some unknown reason we have lost a day in September 2025, when we realised it was a bit of a rush to get to our next (prearranged) destination. We rarely plan too much in detail but we stuffed up here. Our 3.5 casual touring days became 2.5 very quickly! I will put the “Australian County Way” back on the list for another visit in the future).

The name Three Moon reportedly comes from several legends all with a similar theme. One tells of a Stockman retrieving water from the creek on night when he noticed the moon and the sky and its reflection in the creek and also in his Billy. The second is of a Chinese miner who also saw the moon reflected in the creek and his pannikin. The third is that of European landholders who employed aboriginal stockmen on their stations. To ensure that the stockmen returned from their walkabouts when needed they were asked to return every third full moon.

29 August to 4 September

I have enjoyed a few lovely days in Townsville while Philip flew home for some medical appointments. We are in a lovely park, (Rowes Bay) with a walking/bike path along the waterfront. Easy riding and walking for some exercise and a lovely swimming pool for the days when I need to cool off. Margaret and Cameron are also staying here so I have some company while Philip is away.

Margaret and I spent a very nice day checking out the shopping and having a lovely pedicure. We both have very pretty toenails now and our feet no longer have the red dust tinge ground into them. The museum, The Strand, walking, riding and relaxing have filled my days in quite well. Also some time for some handwork and a drink or two and shared meals.

25-29th August

Travelling from Karumba to Townsville over 4 days, free camping along the way. Passing through some varying landscapes and interesting spots. Towns that are dying and towns that are thriving. Spotting cattle and kangaroos, emu with chicks, goannas and snakes. History of goldfields, old and new, natures wonders and flood damaged roads and fencing. All these make for an interesting drive. Following are some highlights from along the way.

Copperfield Gorge and Einasleigh township (dying). The Savanahlander train no longer reaches here due to damage done to the bridge during the last floods. Copperfield Gorge was created when the Copperfield River eroded a channel through a sheet of Basalt laid down by an ancient lava flow. The old Einasleigh pub first established in the late 1800 no longer serves meals, but still stands as a sentinel to this lovely gorge.

Cumberland Chimney. This was an overnight stop for us along with several other vans. We had no sooner set up and sat down to relax than Philip spotted some movement a short distance from us. Out with the cameras to follow a huge goanna as it ambled across the road and into scrubland. What a treat to see. (P:- the. Lizard was easy 120cm (4’) long and most probably 5’ – He would give you a fright if he ran up your leg!)

Only the chimney from the Cumberland Battery and the man-made lagoon remain from this once thriving mining town. Cumberland was born when gold was discovered in 1872. It grew to be one of the major gold producers in the Etheridge goldfields. The Cumberland Company dammed the nearby creek to create a permanent water supply for the emerging town. The mine closed in 1897 and the population numbers declined. Campers and birdwatchers now enjoy this lovely setting.

(P:- the author omitted to mention we drove from Einasleigh to the “Lynd” via the Gregory Development and Kennedy Development Roads, these development roads originally put in to allow road transport to replace cattle drovers. They are still narrow gravel or one lane bitumen, many low level river crossings and cattle grids, with unfenced boundaries and wandering cattle. At one river crossing we met a young German Tourist travelling alone in some well used van. She was afraid to cross the river (probably only 8-12” deep and 60’ long (20-30cm deep and 20m long). A bit of coaching and encouragement she accomplished her first Aussie River crossings. That evening we camped in Blackbraes National Park, a very isolated area with the silence occasionally broken by the rumble of a 3 Trailer livestock road train rolling past. Our new German “friend” camped with us that evening ( safety in numbers I think) She was off across the country to start a job at Ayres Rock Resort. As we headed south the next day there were many roughly rebuilt road sections that were completely washed out in the floods earlier in the year.)

Porcupine Gorge is a dramatic colourful sandstone chasm just north of Hughenden. Carved by Porcupine Creek, the gorge features vibrant sedimentary rock layers and permanent waterholes.

Charters Towers was an interesting town and we could spend a lot more time here. It has a huge mining history and a beautiful Main Street area with some quite opulent old buildings. The Stock Exchange Arcade opened in 1889 as the Royal Arcade. Once a beautiful gas lit arcade it fell into disrepair but was restored in the 1970’s using the original plans.

The Daking-Smith Building was built by Alfred Daking Smith using local red clay bricks. The store employed over 140 staff and offered a wide range of goods. In 1934, former employee Stan Pollard took over, adding a mezzanine and installing a unique “flying fox” cash system. Pollards remained a local favourite until Stan’s death in 1987.

4 massive mosaic walls depict different eras in the towns history. These are depictions from Peter Lawsons artworks. Each painting has been transformed in to a large scale mosaic consisting of more than 700,000 meticulously hand placed tiles. (Each tile about 12mm square)

Ravenswood was another surprise for us. Philip had read that it was an old mining town being re mined. We had some spare time so off we went to check it out. Turned out to be a very interesting couple of hours wandering around the old town. Gold was discovered here in 1868 through to the 1900s. The township flourished and grew to 5000 residents and boasted 48 hotels. Several of the historical buildings still remain. Due to an industrial strike in 1912 and World War 1, the mining and the town became deserted

(P:- The impulse decision to take the road to Ravenswood was a winner – need to come back to this area one day, most interesting and much more to explore. We do enjoy non planned travel destinations, like today they can be a real surprise)!

As we come to the end of our “Outback” travels it’s time to reflect on why we love it so much.

For me it’s the ever changing colour, reds and golds and greens and the magnificent blue sky, (the millions of stars that light up the night sky and the amazing sunsets and sun rises that turn the skies to glowing pinks, reds and oranges. It’s the history that you find around every corner and nature at its best. Why wouldn’t you love this great country.

(P:-Tomorrow its to the coast and the next month will be slowly heading south to home. As the Author mentioned we love the outback, as well as what was mentioned above, I enjoy the outback camps (camp as in pull up on side of road or river towards days end) with almost no one else around, no need to close the blinds of the van windows – leaving them open gives us some beautiful sunrises, a great start to the day, the friendly people, no one is in a rush, we stop to take a photo and before we know it a (local ) vehicle stops to see if we are ok, fishermen giving us fresh caught fish, having a chat with a local (always a story to remember), every body just seems to have time to care and talk. Oh and the rumble and roar (to me the sound is like a symphony orchestra is to others) of the road trains on the outback roads, they can be heard for miles.

Once we hit the coast based on the past everyone seems to be in a hurry to get nowhere! But we need to hit the coast as I am outta fresh Seafood!)

19-25th August

Burketown and Normanton were just overnight stops. Both beside rivers. After stopping at the Visitors Centre in Burketown and talking to the guy there we paid our fee and followed the track out to the Albert River. The track took us out across the salt flats to a campsite overlooking the river, no one else in sight. Kangaroos stopped and watched us as we set up and we scanned the riverbanks for crocodiles after a warning they were about but not one could be seen. We enjoyed dinner as the sun set and headed inside once the mozzies appeared.

Next morning we retrace our route back over the salt flats and onto the road to Normanton. The first 80 k has numerous stops for roadworks but it’s still a steady trip and we are in Normanton by lunchtime. Again into the visitors centre to get our camping permit then over the bridge to find a spot alongside the Norman River. Again warnings to stay well back from the rivers edge but no crocs were sighted. After lunch we walked back into town, following some of the history walk. Found the butchers and purchased some meat for the next week before heading back to van. Before leaving this morning Philip washes our van, leaving quite a lot of red dust behind. Almost got all the dust off. (P:- correction to the Authors statement- the red out back dust penetrates every crack, micro hole and sticks to everything! From previous experience every wash for ever and a day will produce Outback Dirt trails!)

Next morning we are off to Karumba for 5 days. We both love Karumba. It’s just got a relaxed feel about it. Great sunsets, a good pub for a night out and friendly neighbours at the park. We settle into our site and my first job is laundry. (P:- and just like washing the van that Outback Red is impregnated in everything! I am sure when I clean my teeth there is a Outback red tinge in the toothpaste when I spit it out after brushing!) It’s been quite a few days since the last laundry day so it’s good to have fresh clothes by the end of the day. We watch the sunset from the van and enjoy dinner as the sky turns red and fades to pink.

The bikes are out and we are off for a ride into town following the walking/bike path, then around town to check out the fishing boats and jetties. Then the cafe for a smoothie and an iced coffee (sustenance to get us back) before following the bike path back again. Philip did take me bush bashing first up because he couldn’t find the start of the track. He was at the wrong end of the park. (P:- I am always getting something wrong so really just part of the norm!)

Dinner at the pub tonight as watched the sunset. Calamari for entree to share and then delicious Barramundi and salad for mains. The sunset here never disappoints.

We spend the days here cleaning some of the red dust off the van and vehicle, out of storage bins and off clothes. Riding and swimming at the pool, chatting to neighbours and just relaxing. Neighbours across the road twice delivered fresh fish to us. It was delicious. We made several trips up the road to purchase mud crabs which are delicious and prawns. Each day finishes with a gorgeous sunset. We will sad to move on tomorrow.

(P:- as mentioned a favourite place of ours – I first visited on a Royal Flying Dr Outback Air Race ( a fundraiser for the RFDS) liked the place then and have been back 4 times now! Beautiful 30-33 degree days, Sunsets that are way better than any others I have seen (including places like Broome), not too many people (and what people there are are friendly). The seafood also deserves another mention! I like Karumba’s Slogan “Karumba – Outback by the Sea” that about says it all!)

17-19th August

Over the last several days we have been driving from Roper Bar and Limmen National Park to Borroloola to Hells Gate Roadhouse and on to Burketown.

Initially the road wasn’t too bad but from Borroloola to Hells Gate it was the worst road we have ever driven. We had been warned that it was rough and to take care so we were sort of prepared. But it was worse than we imagined. Bull dust, corrugations for miles, rocks, creeks, dust and more dust. It was fun and the ever changing scenery kept us interested. We saw more animals through here than we have seen all trip. Kangaroos, emu, cattle, wild pigs, eagles, pelicans.

(P – We have about finished our full lap of National Highway One, over various trips. The missing link for a few years has been the Savannah Way (the original Savannah Way, not to be confused with the black top version further south). As the author stated some of it was rugged enough to shake the fillings out of your teeth! Whilst it might not have the status, be as trendy and have “naming rights” like Cape York and the Gibb River Road, I think it is just as beautiful, less commercialised, virtually no traffic ( like about 4 or 5 oncoming vehicles each day),has some fantastic natural wonders, saw more animals ( both native and introduced) and was fortunate to see a couple of cattle musters along the track! Around 1000klm of outback dirt roads have rolled under our tyres in the last 5 days, I doesn’t get much more Aussie than driving roads and tracks like these! The isolated “Hells Gates Road House” just near the NT \ Queensland Border we felt, is aptly named as we had just completed one “Hell of a “Road”).

The name Hells Gate originated from the early days of gulf settlement, when early settlers moved through the only gap in the escarpment. Police escorted travellers to the “portals of hell” from then on they were on their own until they reached Katherine. It’s the same track that explorer and overlander and bushman Nat Buchanan travelled in 1881, as he guided the first settlers to take up and settle the first two cattle runs in the Northern Territory.